One of the finer lessons learned during NYFW is called the bait and switch. Bait the world into thinking that you live a non-stop life of glamour and five inch stilettos, then switch out of those puppies as soon as the opportunity arises. Walk around enough and you’ll start to recognize official “shoe-switching” stations usually between one to two blocks from a venue on the less trafficked streets. Those outside the industry may snicker at this tactic or wonder why women torture themselves so, but they don’t experience twelve hour days covering fashion shows. This was the case for Day Three of NYFW FW 2017.
Following the prior day’s presentation by Layana Aguilar, we returned to the Stewart Hotel for one more showing by the Fashion Gallery, for the Designers’ Premiere. One thing that can be said about these presentations is that they are definitely of high quality and we look forward to the opportunity to be a part of these shows next season.
This time around the Designers’ Premier was a showcase of emerging industry talent that was fairly local (three from Pennsylvania), a concept that is becoming increasingly popular for NYFW which features less and less American and even fewer New York based designers. I wasn’t sure of the qualifications to be involved in this presentation, but these designers were notably smaller than some of the other names throughout the weekend.
The collections presented were those of Maria Balestino, Ashlee Bowers, Naldo Montanez from Puerto Rico, Kita Griffin and Nicteel GT from Guatemala. Quite an ecclectic grouping of I may say, but nevertheless the runway was impressive. Unfortunately, my photographer wasn’t here so I missed the chance to nab many good pictures.
Image Credit: Imagen
Oxford Fashion Studio is one of those presentations that need less and less introduction each time, especially as this marks their fourth showing in NYFW. Creating by a team that wanted to bring more emerging designers to the forefront of the London scene, OFS (as it’s affectionately called) has championed an international focus on fashion wherever it has presented.
This time was no different. We attended two showings of OFS today, with a focus on designers not from the US, with the notable exception of two talented labels.
The 5 PM showing started with Leotards SA, swimwear out of Panama. Next up was Matt Sarafa, one of two US designers. Following was Zimbabwe based David Alford Harare and Lithuania based Leg Code with her exceptionally vibrant garments. The shop’s second American label Clan of Cro presented before Malaysia based Norish Kareem, followed by Anthi G of the United Kingdom and to close the showing Gozel Green of Nigeria. Almost every continent on Earth participated in what was quite an impressive showing.
The 9 PM showing was no less international, if not a tad more focused on commercially oriented collections. Asurio Pinafico traveled from the Philippines to present for NYFW, as did John Kaveke of Kenya, although his collection would be at home in most style oriented menswear boutiques. Deepa Dosaja, also of Kenya, presented a collection that would be equally at home in the closets of those that love Kate Spade and Alice & Olivia. Sckali channeled ethnic patterns and textures from her native Qatar. Portuguese Marita Moreno focused more on her accessories, notably leather handbags representing the Colors of the World. Diana Walkiewicz closed the presentation light-years ahead of the rest with futuristic silhouettes and led lights in certain areas of the garments.
American. Grunge. Leather. Biker. Street. Sport. All terms that could have been used to describe Asaf Ganot’s FW 2017 presentation with varying degrees of accuracy. Shout out to the Alab Group for securing such amazing seats in the front row for the presentation, as the show did not disappoint. This presentation marked the first year that Asaf Ganot began presenting his women’s line of outerwear expanding from only men’s staples.
While it’s safe to assume any MotoCross team would have been fine with Asaf Ganot’s collection, the same could be said for members of the WangSquad. Intricate detailing, fringes and patterning were commonplace in the collection as leather was sculpted to create a number of unique looks from the tried and true jacket staple. The concept behind the presentation was “destroyed luxury”, where the pieces are rugged yet refined, suave yet understated, with an element of surprise. This was achieved by a variety of treatments and techniques from boiling, braiding, and waxing to deconstructing and reconstructing, all to create this visual tension.
One cool takeaway from Asaf Ganot’s collection that was never really featured in the show is the slogan, Active. Elemental. Refined. It’s safe to say those concepts were a big part of the brand’s latest presentation.